Vinyl flooring is one of the easiest DIY floor coverings to install. It snaps together end to end and edge to edge and is simple to cut. It also doesn't need to be bonded to the flooring. Since vinyl is fully immune to water, it is also a great option for high-moisture spaces like bathrooms and basements, but it may also work well in kitchens and bedrooms. If you want to buy mosaic effect vinyl flooring, wood-effect vinyl flooring, hallway flooring, etc, visit Vinyl Flooring UK.
Installation-Related Considerations:
Keep in mind that there are several vinyl flooring options to take into account. Planks and tiles made of interlocking vinyl flooring are available, and both attach easily with a snap. Although interlocking vinyl flooring is the most straightforward to install yourself, glue-down and glue-together vinyl flooring is also available. You must level your subfloor, remove any existing carpet or flooring, temporarily remove baseboards, and make sure there are no cracks before installing either.
Installing Vinyl Plank Flooring
Step 1: Create a Floor Plan:
Working outward towards the entryway, begin with the wall that is most noticeable—typically the first one to catch your attention as you enter the space. The edge that runs alongside the bathtub in a small bathroom may be the one that is most noticeable. Starting from the most noticeable wall or feature in the space, you will lay the first row of boards parallel to it and continue across the room.
Step 2: Take Out the Trim Mouldings:
Eliminate the trim that touches the ground. Baseboards, base shoe mouldings, and case mouldings surrounding doors fall under this category. Press the pry bar's tip underneath the moulding with a tap. To safeguard the wall, position a thin board beneath the bar. Door case moulding is difficult to remove cleanly, so leave it in place. Use an electric multi-tool or an undercut saw to prepare the door case moulding for undercutting.
Step 3: Prepping the Floor:
Over the current flooring, install vinyl plank flooring. To achieve a level surface for the new floor, any high points should be sanded down. Your objective is to provide the vinyl plank flooring with the smoothest, most level surface possible. When installing vinyl flooring over a concrete subfloor, use a concrete patcher to seal any cracks or divots. Fill any indentations with a floor-leveling compound if you are installing the flooring over a plywood subfloor.
Step 4: Test-Fit the Initial Plank Row:
Along the entire length of the wall, test fit the first row of vinyl planks. The flooring arrangement will look its best when the cut boards at the opposing side walls are about the same length. To ensure that the cut planks at the ends are the same length, begin with a full plank in the middle of the wall and work your way to either side. A gap of 1/4 inch should be left at the ends and the wall. This expansion gap can be established by placing spacers up against the walls.
Step 5: Cut the Planks to Size:
Using a utility knife and carpenter's square, make a partial cut through the plank. Rather than attempting to cut the wood in a single pass, run the knife lightly across its face multiple times. Once the final surface is facing down, turn the board over. Refold the plank. It might break off on its own. If not, carefully run the utility knife through the fold to complete the cut.
Step 6: Attach the Interlocking Floor Planks:
Install luxury vinyl planks end to end and edge to edge using a tongue and groove technique that folds and locks. While the other plank is held at an angle and inserted into the receiving groove of the first board, one plank is flat on the subfloor. To draw the boards together and lock them in place, fold the second board until it rests flat and parallel to the first board.
After laying the first row, lay the remaining rows across the floor, attaching the planks end to end first, then placing the new row along the edge of the preceding row and tucking its tongue into the groove of the preceding row. Ensure that the end joints are spaced apart by at least six inches from the end joints of the row before them.
Step 7: Cutting for Protrusions:
When faced with obstructions like floor ducts or door frames, cut the vinyl planks with a utility knife. Alternatively, you can simply cut them to the right shape with heavy-duty shop scissors or tin snips.
Step 8: Position Planks Around Outgrowths:
Cut to accommodate planks around obstructions. Since vinyl plank flooring is so pliable, it can typically be bent to accommodate protrusions like door frames. To maneuver the cutout plank into place, it might be required to remove earlier boards, depending on the kind of impediment. Once the cuts are made, hold the cut-out plank upright and at an angle, and then attach it to the next board. Next, gradually fold the cut-out board down until it locks into position with the nearby plank.
Step 9: Trim and Install the Last Plank:
To fit, trim the final row of planks lengthwise. Don't forget to add the 1/4-inch spacing. Using a metal straightedge and utility knife, cut the planks lengthwise. Connect the ends of these slender planks, then tuck the tongues into the grooves left by the preceding row. If required, pull this last narrow plank against the preceding row using a flooring pull bar.
Step 10: Put the Trim Mouldings Back in Place:
After the floor is installed, reattach the baseboards and trim, ideally with a pneumatic brad nailer. While it is possible, manually nailing with a hammer can easily harm the trim; nevertheless, a brad nailer accomplishes this task with ease. If you choose to manually nail, make sure the nail heads are recessed beneath the trim's surface by using a nail set. Door case moulding ends may need to be trimmed to fit the smaller space if the floor has been elevated sufficiently.
