A blower door test shows how much outside air is getting into a house, and duct sealing closes off the leaks inside the heating and cooling system that a blower door alone cannot fix. Run separately, each test tells only part of the story. Run together, they give a homeowner a full picture of where energy dollars are going, along with an actual repair plan.
Most people call for an energy assessment because a utility bill jumped or a bedroom never warms up in January. The real cause is often hiding in ductwork nobody has looked at since the house was built.
Why Do Homeowners Need Both Tests?

A blower door test measures total air leakage through the building envelope, including windows, doors, sill plates, and attic hatches. A calibrated fan mounted in an exterior doorway pressurizes or depressurizes the home to 50 Pascals, a standard used across building science so results can be compared fairly between homes. It tells a technician how tight the shell of the house is, but not much about ductwork buried in an attic, which is why sealing the duct is usually evaluated as a separate step during the same visit.
What Is a Duct Blaster Test?

A duct blaster test measures how much air escapes from a home's duct system before it reaches a supply register. A technician connects a calibrated fan directly to the ductwork, pressurizes the system, and records the airflow needed to hold a set pressure, usually expressed as cubic feet per minute at 25 Pascals, or CFM25. The reading tells a homeowner exactly how much conditioned air is being lost, not just that a leak probably exists somewhere.
Expert Insight
Duct leakage costs more in states with longer, colder winters. The table below shows how regional heating demand changes the stakes for unsealed ductwork.
| Region | Approx. Annual Heating Degree Days* | Why It Matters for Sealing the Duct |
| Rhode Island | ~5,800 | Shorter season, but older coastal homes often route ducts through unconditioned attics |
| New Hampshire | ~7,000 | Long, cold winters keep HVAC systems running for months, so leaks add up fast |
| Maine | ~7,500 | Highest regional heating demand, meaning duct leaks waste the most energy per season |
*Figures are rounded estimates based on NOAA regional climate normals and vary by specific location within each state.
How Much Energy Does Duct Sealing Actually Save?

According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's ENERGY STAR program, a typical home loses 20 to 30 percent of the air moving through its duct system to leaks, holes, and poorly connected joints. That air was already heated or cooled, and most of it ends up in an attic or crawl space instead of a living room. Sealing ducts with mastic sealant or metal tape, not standard duct tape, restores airflow to registers and reduces strain on HVAC equipment.
What Happens During a Combined Energy Assessment?
A typical visit starts with a blower door test to set a baseline leakage number for the house. The technician then runs a duct blaster test on the supply and return lines to isolate how much of that leakage is coming from ductwork rather than windows or an attic hatch. Sealing ducts will not fix a leaky attic hatch, and weatherizing an attic will not fix a disconnected duct joint behind a wall, so both readings matter.
What Should the Homeowners Know about These Methods?
Homeowners looking into duct sealing Rhode Island often find older coastal homes with ductwork routed through unconditioned attics and crawl spaces, which adds humidity exposure on top of normal wear. In New Hampshire, HVAC systems run nearly nonstop for months at a time, so duct sealing New Hampshire is less about comfort and more about controlling a bill that keeps climbing through February. Maine's colder inland regions see some of the longest heating seasons in New England, which is why duct sealing Maine tends to deliver a faster payback than almost any other efficiency upgrade available there.
Expert Insight
Not every home needs the same level of correction. The table below compares typical unsealed duct leakage with the benchmark used for ENERGY STAR certified new construction.
| Category | Typical Leakage Level | Standard Referenced |
| Older, unsealed duct system | 20% to 30% of system airflow | ENERGY STAR national average |
| ENERGY STAR certified new home | 4 CFM25 per 100 sq ft of floor area, or 40 CFM25, whichever is larger | ANSI/RESNET/ICC Standard 380 |
Blower door testing and air duct tightening are not competing services. They work as a pair, one measuring the whole house and the other measuring the system inside it. A homeowner who addresses only one is usually left wondering why the bill did not drop as much as expected.
Ready to Find Out Where Your Home Is Losing Energy?
If you are in Rhode Island, New Hampshire, or Maine and have recently started looking for duct sealing, work with a team that measures the problem first instead of guessing at repairs.
JB's Home Energy has provided third-party home energy assessments and duct and air sealing since 2015. Schedule a blower door and duct blaster assessment to see where your home is losing conditioned air.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What equipment is needed for a blower door test?
A: A blower door test requires a calibrated fan mounted in a temporary frame that fits an exterior doorway, a manometer to measure the pressure difference between inside and outside air, and software that calculates airflow at 50 Pascals. Technicians often add smoke pencils or a thermal camera to locate leaks once the fan is running.
Q: How long does a combined blower door and duct plugging assessment take?
A: Most residential assessments take two to four hours, depending on home size and how accessible the ductwork is. Ducts hidden in a finished basement ceiling usually take longer to test than ducts in an open attic.
Q: Does sealing the duct actually lower monthly utility bills?
A: Sealing ducts that were leaking 20 percent or more of system airflow generally improves comfort right away and reduces the runtime needed to reach a set temperature. The exact dollar savings depends on local utility rates, home size, and how severe the leakage was before sealing.
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