Death Valley National Park

The Untourists
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Probably nothing conjures to the mind more cinematic visuals than the thought of Death Valley National Park. And behind the morbid name is a large, beautiful piece of land with its own rich bio-diversity.

A land of extremes, the Death Valley national Park has mountain peaks draped in winter snow and it has areas like the Furnace Creek where summer temperatures touch 57 degrees Celsius. The Telescope Peak on the Panamint Range is 3368 metres above sea level, while the Bad Water Basin is 82 metres below! While much of the park is drought hit, rains can cause flash floods. These intense factors create a unique ecosystem and landscape which is like none other one would have seen. Death Valley National Park is a must visit, and we strongly suggesting visiting in Spring or just after the rains when the wildflowers blossom in abundance.

The best way to see the park is, of course, by living inside it. But we hadn’t book well in advance and had to look outside. That could have been a good thing since we ended up staying at Lone Pine, a picturesque town at the foothills of the Alabama range. Death Valley was almost 100 miles from Lone Pine, but the Visitor Centre was right next door.

The drive to Lone Pine itself was gorgeous and as we approached day light started fading but we could see the vastness and the beauty in the landscape. There were wildflower shrubs on either side of the road painting the entire ground in a wonderous yellow.

But it didn’t still prepare us for what we saw inside the park. Death Valley is perhaps the most gorgeous landscape we have visited. Vast empty stretches of wilderness with straight roads. Shrubs on either side with the odd Joshua Tree holding out. If you looked carefully, and stood still long enough, (which is difficult considering the park is so huge and you want to see more of it) you will start seeing the wildlife. Birds, little rodents, pollinators… This place has its own bio-diversity.

The Death Valley Visitor Center at Lone Pine. A stop at this place (or any other visitor center) is a must to get your maps, know more about the park and pick up water or any supplies you may need. You also need to buy an entrance pass to the park which is thankfully valid for seven days.

As you approach the park with the gorgeous Alabama Hills behind you, the vast open landscape starts swallowing you…

 

Shrubs of what look like Desert Holly (Atriplex hymenelytra) on either side of the road.

Looking back at the Alabama Hills, in the direction of Lone Pine.

We came across this motorcycle group. The landscape of Death Valley is very suited to a biking trip.

Snow capped peaks in the distance, winding roads through the dry valleys of Death Valley. A truly magical landscape.

The amazing Ford Explorer was our rented car for the trip. Perfectly suited for road trips, I wish it was sold in India too.

Sand dune hills look like folds of canvas in the morning light.

What looks like a Horned Rattlesnake or a Sidewinder (Crotalus cerastes) in the Amargosa Desert of Death Valley National Park

The Death Valley pupfish (Cyprinodon salinus) are found in a tiny stream of water in the Amargosa Desert region. These fish are endemic to this region and classified as highly endangered.

The Mesquite Flat sand dunes are a unique phenomenon here, surrounded by hills.

The area around Mesquite Flats Sand Dunes is also worth exploring. It would be amazing to be able to see this after dark.

The Artist’s Palette is a black mountain with colourful front due to the oxidation of various minerals found here. This is a classic example of the violent volcanic activity in this region millions of years ago.

The vast white salt desert at Bad Water Basin. This place is 86 meters below sea level and gets over 50 degrees Celsius temperature in the summers. Once a lake, the evaporating waters left the salt behind…

If you stand still and look around you will see plenty of wildlife, like this desert beetle going to work.

We drive down to Nevada from Grapevine in Death Valley to the Bonnie’s Claire Falt. A vast grassland kind of region full of birds, we saw wild Burros a specific breed of donkeys from America.

Nevada is considered one of the best landscapes ever, and we wished we had more time in hand to explore this wonderful region.

A Black Throated Sparrow (Amphispiza bilineata)

Tiny wildlflowers grown between the pebbles

A family of Burros we cam across in Nevada. These are the native wild donkeys of North America

The sun kept creating new shadows and patterns…

Taking a moment to soak in the beauty. Often when photographing you personally forget to connect with your environs.

A better shot of the Burros

Even tinier wildflowers, Nevada

Slowly as the sun started setting it was time to head back.

An American Rosefinch (Haemorhous cassinii) in California

The Alabama Hills clad in snow

Desert shrubs form much of the vegetation

Looking at the view around Death Valley. Mesmerising…

The resort at Panamint Springs where you can find something to eat.

Absolutely stunning landscapes with clear blue skies…

At Stove Pipe Wells, another place you can find refreshments and fuel inside the Park

As I stood at Stove Pipe Wells I noticed this huge whirlwind of dust…

The restaurant at Stove Pipe Wells serves fantastic American cuisine. A nice place to fill up your car and your tummy.

Note the size of the dust whirlwind as compared the the parked cars…

There are frames everywhere in Death Valley National Park

The soil makes one feel like one is on Mars…

Walking to the Amargosa River near Saratoga Springs to see some Pupfish

The landscape is very dry…

The Amargosa River…

Unique Desert Tree at the Furnace Creek Visitor Center

The Furnace Creek Visitor Center. These centers are a great place to find more information about the park.

Wildflower at the Furnace Creek Visitor Center

More wildfowers at Furnace Creek Visitor Center

Zebriskie Point, Death Valley National Park

Zebriskie Point, Death Valley National Park

Absolutely amazing landscape, check for best light for each landscape.

Zebriskie Point, Death Valley National Park

Zebriskie Point, Death Valley National Park

 

The park is 13650 sqKm so keep more than three days to exploring it.

What to see at Death Valley National Park: Do step by the visitor centers at any of the park entrances. If they have a documentary, do try and see it. Collect your maps, drinking water etc here.

20 minutes South of the Furnace Creek Visitor Center is the Devil’s Golf Course, an area of eroded rock salt eroded by wind and rain into jagged spires.  30 minutes south of the Furnace Creek Visitor Center is the Bad Water Basin, the lowest point in North America (its about 86 metres below sea level). A large flat area of salt desert, it was once a lake whose waters have evaporated over the years leaving behind salt deposits. In the rains it was some water logging, but it quickly evaporates. Summer temperatures here routinely cross 50 degrees Celsius.

15 minutes south of Furnace Creek is Artists Road and Artists Palette. It’s a drive through old volcanic rock mountains with extremely colourful patterns formed by the oxidation of various minerals.

Zebriskie Point is one of the most famous view points in Death Valley National Park. It is q0 minutes east of Furnace Creek. 15 minutes east of Furnace Creek is the Twenty Mule Team Canyon, a winding off road through ‘otherworldly badlands’.

40 minutes from Furnace Creek is Dante’s View point.l At 1669 meters above sea level, it offers one of the best views in the Death Valley National Park, including an amazing sun rise. It overlooks the Bad Water Basin and the Panamint Mountains.

A few minutes ahead of Furnace Creek is Harmony Borax Works, an old (but no longer functional) Borax factory, one of the earliest attractions in Death Valley.

About 30 minutes west of Furnace Creek are the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, the largest sand dune area inside Death Valley National Park.

At the Panamint Springs area look at Darwin Falls, a miracle in the desert. These are spring fed waterfalls and home to migratory birds in spring. Father Crowley Vista is a landscape of dark ancient lava flows and volcanic cinders with a view of the Rainbow Canyon. Lee Flat Joshua Tree is an area for one of the best groves of Joshua Trees. Wildrose Charcoal Kilns are old (now discontinued) structures located in the Wildrose Canyon in Panamint Mountains. The Aguereberry Point gives a very high altitude view of Death Valley from the West.

There’s plenty to see on the Death Valley National park. Make sure you have enough days! We feel at least 4 nights are required here.

Where to Stay at Death Valley National Park: Before you plan your visit do go through the National Park Service website for weather and other details. The best places to stay are inside the park, but you must book them well in advance.

Inside the Park: Stove Pipe Wells is open all year and has simple and affordable accommodation. The Inn at Death Valley (formerly called Furnace Creek Inn) is undergoing remodeling so check them on their website. The Ranch At Death Valley (formerly called Furnace Creek Ranch) is also undergoing remodeling. Open all year round. Panamint Springs Resort is open all year round and offers accommodations and camping. There are plenty of camping options too which may be cheaper. Look at the national park service website. In Furnace Creek you can find all your supplies for camping (not the gear, but food, water, toilet rolls etc).

Outside the park: In case you cant find accommodation inside the park, look at the nearest outside. To the East of Death Valley is Pahrump in Nevada. It has many accommodation options. To the west west is a lovely old town of Bishop. You can find plenty to do and stay at Bishop.

We had stayed at Lone Pine 100 miles from Death Valley’s Furnace Creek Region. But because the roads are good and the journey gorgeous, we never felt we were staying very far away.

 

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